EVERGREENS DROPPING LEAVES
Are some of your evergreen leaves looking yellow or tan and then dropping? No need to panic right away. Many evergreens will lose about 30% of their foliage each year, but the timing will vary depending upon species. We are not always paying attention, so the frequency can appear to be even less. If you notice this change in your plants, drive around, and inspect others of the same type. If they are also experiencing this sloughing of foliage, then you can probably relax. If the loss of foliage is more significant, then contact someone who regularly deals with pests and diseases. My first call is to my tree man who regularly deals with pests and diseases of my trees and shrubs.
When I am concerned, one of the first things I do is check the soil. If it is extremely wet, then your soil conditions may have changed. Your soil is not draining well and the excessive moisture could kill your plant. Is it due to damaged irrigation lines? Is there significant storm water runoff due to overflowing gutters or downspout blockages? If there is no apparent reason for the change, then do consider transplanting the affected plants to a location with better drainage. If you feel the need to fill in the vacated space, select a plant that can tolerate ‘wet feet’ and plant it a bit higher above grade. For instance, we regularly plant rhododendron with the top of the root ball 3 to 4 inches above grade.
By far, my first course of action is to discover what has caused the change in soil conditions. It is always best to proceed with the benefit of knowledge.
ALLOWING DORMANT FOLIAGE TO REMAIN
Do not be too hasty to remove dormant foliage during the winter months. The dormant foliage can provide protection for wildlife, or added insulation at the ground level for root systems. For some plants like Acanthus mollis / Bears’ Breeches, I purposefully gather pine branches to layer on top since we are on the northern cusp for this plant. Ornamental grasses are among my favorites during the winter. I love their tan color that can turn golden in the sun, and I love their movement with the wind.
PREPPING FOR THE HOLIDAYS
As we get ready for the holidays, enjoy trimming some of your evergreens and berries to bring inside. If you planted anything late in the season, no need to water any more. Our ground is completely saturated and the cold temperatures are keeping the moisture in. I recommend wrapping first year broadleaf evergreens with burlap around the perimeter, or tying up your columnar evergreens with hemp in December or early January. If the plants are right by your front door, you may want to wait until after the parties are over in early January. DON’T FORGET TO TURN OFF AND DRAIN OUTDOOR HOSE BIBS AND HOSES.
SPRING-FLOWERING BULBS
If you still have some bulbs left in your garage, go ahead and put them in the ground. Even if the top 2” of the soil is frozen, below that is usually fine. DO NOT plant with Bone Meal, since the nutritional benefit is minimal while unfortunately attracting animals to your bulbs. For tulips, I frequently plant with some mothballs to help ward off the chipmunks and squirrels who love them.
SNOW & ICE
Try to brush heavy snow off of evergreen trees and shrubs. If allowed to stay, the snow could cause abnormal spreading between branches. Such damage is frequently seen in boxwoods, arborvitae and upright junipers and ‘Sky Pencil’ Japanese holly. If desired, you can bind the plants with twine before the first snowfall. Though unsightly, it will protect the plants without your help. The twine can easily be removed in the spring. If you use fishing line, this can remain in place all year.
For the young, broadleaf evergreens, sometimes wrapping the sides with burlap is sufficient to protect against desiccating winds.
Unfortunately, there is nothing you can do about ice. If you attempt to break off the ice, you are likely to damage the plant even more. Just hope the ice melts as quickly as possible. In the spring, careful pruning can fix most of the winter damage. New spring growth will take care of the rest.
LAWN CARE
Winter is the perfect time to broadcast a slow-release lime product to raise the alkalinity of the soil. For most lawns, an application of lime once a year is sufficient. If you are in a wooded area, there is always something dropping from the trees – flowers, seeds and leaves. As these decompose, they increase the acidity of the soil, which in turn contributes to root rot in your lawn. You may need to spread lime several times a year to counteract this natural tendency. Try late fall before the leaves really begin to drop, mid-winter if there is no snow on the ground, and early spring before the new growth begins. In the Maryland area, March is generally a good time for the last application. These days, most lawn service companies are reluctant to apply this much lime due to concerns about chemical runoff. They may only be willing to provide one or two applications per year. It is always a good idea to have your soil tested to determine the pH level that exists. This will help you determine the next steps. Many lawn care companies are willing to help with the soil analysis and guidance moving forward. If you have Southern States in your area, they may be willing to help as well.
Stay warm, stay well, and HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL.
