RAIN….I don’t think I’ve ever been so happy to see some rain.  The last two weeks in June have been such a relief.  Fortunately, most has been of the slow, steady variety, therefore allowing most of it to soak into the soil.  I know it’s not nearly enough to make up for all we have lost during May and June, but I’ll take whatever I can get.  Once again, my Native Rhododendron / Rhododendron maximum didn’t start to bloom until the last week in June.  Maybe this really is the new normal for this plant.  Of course, many of the Hydrangea macrophylla buds froze in the spring, we’re all used to that by now, but the reaction of our other plants still feels new to me.  For instance, the Callicarpa, Fothergilla and Hypericum were hard hit, and very late to leaf out, but they now look as healthy as they always look in June.

If any of you have similar observations or theories about what we are experiencing, please share your thoughts.

WINEBERRY….The wild Wineberries growing at the woods edge, or sometimes out in the open, are starting to ripen.  Keep an eye out for these raspberry look alikes.  They’re sweet as sugar, and will only be around for a short time.

POWDERY MILDEW…We usually find ourselves observing Powdery Mildew toward the end of the summer, so imagine my surprise to find it over the past 2 weeks, before the rain arrived.  I first noticed it on some newly planted Spirea ‘Anthony Waterer’, and then it appeared on some Garlic Mustard.  Granted, this latter plant is considered a weed by most of us, but I have never seen it with Powdery Mildew.  This rarely causes any long term problems.  You can treat with Horticultural Oil, trim the foliage back to the height of healthy foliage, or just do nothing.

WATERING…Do you ever see those landscapers with the water tank on their trucks?  I can’t tell you how often I see these folks spraying the foliage.  They water the soil first (GOOD), but then they spend quite a bit of time spraying the foliage, hoping it will cause the drying out leaves to perk right back up.  If it is cloudy and cool, then spraying the foliage is fine, but if it is sunny or in the heat of the day, it will likely cause the foliage to burn.  If the water hits the flowers, it could hasten the wilting of the blooms.  This is why we recommend watering either very early in the morning, or late in the day/ early evening.  We also recommend this time so that the water has a chance to seep into the soil rather than immediately evaporate into the air.  Unfortunately, the commercial watering trucks don’t have that luxury, and will frequently be forced to water during the hottest portion of the day.  Make sure your professionals know that it’s best to water only the soil.

“Once my plants are established, then I no longer need to water.”  How many of us have heard this before?  For plants with substantial root systems such as trees and some shrubs, this may be true.  For plants located in the absolute perfect conditions for that particular plant, this may be true.  But for all others, supplementing with irrigation will be a huge benefit.  How will I know if my plant is in the ideal location?  You could try eliminating all artificial irrigation to see if it survives, but for many of us, this is more risk than we are willing to take.  I am much better about irrigating my garden within my deer fence than I am about the plants outside.  And it shows.  The plants outside are a bit stunted, and a number of my perennials seem to be dwindling a bit.  For instance, my Brunnera’Jack Frost’ inside the garden is huge and multiplying, while those outside seem to be dying off.

When the temperatures sore into the 90’s, do try to give a bit more water to your plants.  If you can water 3x/ week, that will be ideal.  Even if you can only supplement 1x/week, your plants will appreciate the extra help.  Remember that a thorough soaking early in the morning before 10a or late in the day after 5p is best, so that the water has time to penetrate deep into the soil before the sun beats down again.

THISTLE…has a tap root that seems to go on forever.  When pulled, you rarely get the whole plant.  There is a product on the market that targets Thistle called Lontrell, available at SiteOne Landscapes, and at other locations.  Spray on the foliage.  It will be absorbed through the vascular system into the roots, and kill the plant.  The good news is that it does NOT seem to bother other trees and shrubs.  It will damage some perennials, so do use caution when applying.

PERENNIALS THAT FLOP….Some perennials become so tall that they become top heavy, and have a tendency to flop, especially after a good rain.  Many of us resort to bamboo stakes and ties to keep them upright, but for some plants, there is an easier solution.  In June, cut the plant height in half before it starts to flower.  This encourages additional branching and a shorter ultimate height which in turn prevents the ‘flop.’  The plant may bloom a little later than normal, but it will still bloom and be lovely.  Some of the ideal plants for cutting back include: Aconitum, Aster, Amsonia, Baptisia australis, Boltonia, Coreopsis tripteris, Eupatorium (Joe Pye Weed), Phlox maculata or Phlox paniculata, Platycodon grandiflorus, Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’, and Helianthus salicifolius.  Pinching is another good option, especially for Sedum.  Snap off the top 1/3 to 1/2 of each stem by hand (they do snap off if you do this with a quick motion).  It actually does not take that long to do, and the outcome is much better than if you simply shear the plant.  If your flopping plant does not appear on this list, contact me.  I’ll be happy to look up the specifics of your plant.

JAPANESE BEETLES…need I say more.  Typically, I recommend to my clients to treat their property with grub control in the spring.  This will kill the grubs (Japanese beetle larvae) that turn into the beetles that devour our vegetation.  I cheat, and have a lawn company treat my lawn areas every year with a grub control.  Not only will this kill the grubs, but it will also reduce your mole population since they are attracted to the grubs.  If you treat your property, that’s wonderful, but if your neighbor does not, then you may still have a problem.

Unfortunately, it’s too late for that now.  The beetles are here.  So now, what can we do.

DO NOT purchase a Japanese Beetle Trap.  They simply attract everyone’s beetles to your house.

Option 1 – Go out early in the morning with a jar of soapy water.  Pluck off the beetles, and drown them in your jar.  When your jar is full, and the beetles are dead, just dump into the back of the garden and start over again.  Leave the jar outside so that it’s always handy.

Option 2 – Dust the foliage with Sevin Dust, available at most garden centers such as Home Depot, Lowes, Valley View Farm.  One friend puts some dust in an old stocking and swings it around the foliage to be treated.  Try to avoid getting the dust on your skin, in your eyes or breathing.  Try to avoid getting the dust on flowers since it will kill many of our beneficial pollinators.  Hibiscus syriacus / Rose-of-Sharon is one of their favorites.  It’s not in bloom yet, so now would be a good time to dust.

Option 3 – Treating the soil with Nematodes in the Spring.  Nematodes are living organisms that will kill the grubs.  Go to www.gardensalive.com for reliable information.

PRUNE SPRING FLOWERING SHRUBS…. It’s not too late to prune spring flowering shrubs such as Azalea, Pieris, Rhododendron, Spirea and Viburnum.  After the flowers have dropped off, you can safely prune, and the plant will have plenty of time for the buds to set for next year.  This is also a good time to prune the Oakleaf Hydrangea, but you need to be willing to chop off some of those beautiful flowers.

DEAD HEADING PERENNIALS DOES HELP….Most perennials only bloom once a year.  After the blooms are finished, it does help to cut the flower stem down to the height of the attractive foliage.  This prevents unnecessary energy flowing to the development of seed, and instead flows into the development of the root system.  If you want to propagate your plants from seed, then leave at least a few flowers for this purpose.

COLLECTING SEED TO GROW YOUR OWN….I have trouble keeping a few of my perennials going, such as ‘Nora Barlow’ Columbine / Aquilegia ‘Nora Barlow’, and of course Foxglove / Digitalis which is a biennial.  For these, I collect the seeds before their capsules burst, and I plant them quite shallow in a designated part of my garden.  It’s in the back and out of sight.  I know where to look for the progeny of my effort, and I’m careful not to be too hasty about weeding.  The germination has worked well.  I’ve been a bit lazy about transplanting the young plants to more ideal locations later, but at least I have the option to do so.

WHEN TO LEAVE THE PERENNIALS ALONE….Many birds love the seeds produced by our plants, and sometimes the dried seed heads are very attractive in the winter.  A prime example is Black-Eyed Susan / Rudbeckia fulgida.  After the flowers are finished, you are left with the round, black center which persists all winter long, and is quite attractive against the snow.  This is a personal decision that sometimes means the choice between an aesthetic you prefer, and doing what may be more advantageous to the ecosystem you are nurturing. Through trial and error, you will figure out what works best for you.

RENEW UNSIGHTLY FOLIAGE…Foliage of our PERENNIALS can discolor during the growing season either from too much sun (Sun Scorch) or too much humidity (Powdery Mildew).  There are other afflictions as well, but the key is whether the appearance of the foliage bothers you.  If so, cut down the plant to the height of fresh new foliage or to a height of  2-3 inches if all of the foliage is bad.  Usually, the plant will generate new, healthy, disease free foliage this season.  In the rare case that foliage does not reappear, don’t panic.  There is a very good chance that the plant will still appear again next year.

HAVE A NICE SUMMER, AND ENJOY YOUR GARDENS.

DROUGHT….If you have spent any time in your garden this spring, I don’t need to tell you that we’re in the middle of a terrible drought, and it’s the beginning of June!!!  The rains we normally see in May were MIA.  The soil is extremely dry and cracked.  I finally broke down and started watering, but these conditions don’t bode well for our plants, especially those newly planted.  My advice remains the same as always – just do whatever you can.  The best would be a good soaking 3x/week between the hours of 5p – 10a.  You want to give the water plenty of time to soak deep into the soil before the heat of the sun causes it to evaporate.  If you can only water 1x/wk, it’s certainly better than nothing.  Try to avoid a short spritz since you are trying to teach your plants how to be resilient even when watering is skipped for several days.

HEUCHERA – TRIALS AND TRIBULATIONS…. Heuchera / Coral Bells have exploded on the market.  A huge number of cultivars are available with foliage that adds color and texture to your garden.  Some growers boast over 30 different cultivars to attract your creative eye, especially in the spring when the foliage is at its peak.  I’m sure you’ve been tempted by some of these, and there’s a good chance you’ve been disappointed.  My apologies to the growers, but many of these beauties just don’t seem to last very long.  I tend to torture plants in my garden with part shade conditions and very little water, so if they last in my garden, then they’re likely to be a good bet in yours (as long as you can keep the deer away).  Though rabbit resistant, the deer do enjoy nibbling.

Heuchera villosa is native to the mid-Atlantc area.  Heuchera villosa ‘Autumn Bride’ with it’s medium green foliage and white flowers in the fall may be a little boring, but it’s a strong performer.  It lasts for years and fills in nicely.  There have since been quite a few cultivars introduced that are considered a Heuchera villosa strain.  Theoretically, these should perform better for us, so try some of these first.  Years ago, I selected Heuchera v. ‘Georgia Peach’ for one of my display gardens.  I loved them, but they only lasted about 5 years, gradually dwindling to nothing.  I tried Berry Smoothie a few years ago.  Some went in the ground, and a few in containers.  The plants in the containers are about double the size of the plants in the ground.  They stay outside all winter, no insulation and no water.  This is their 3^rd season in the container, and they still look great.  I have no clue why.  There are a few that have done well in my garden…Heuchera ‘Green Spice’, Heuchera ‘Citronelle’, Heuchera ‘Palace Purple’.  Heuchera ‘Rio’ has been a stellar performer so far, but this is only year 2.  Top  performers in the Mt. Cuba Center Trials include…’Citronelle’, ‘Frosted Violet’, ‘Plum Pudding’, ‘Southern Comfort’, ‘Spellbound’, ‘Autumn Bride’, ‘Bronze Wave’, ‘Caramel’, ‘Apple Crisp’.  Test some in your garden, and find out what works for you.

CAREX PENSYLVANICA….About 5 years ago, I decided to replace some of my turf grass areas with Carex pensylvanica.  The turf grass was struggling, and the lawn mowers were creating ruts that contributed to erosion.  I thought that if I could eliminate the lawn mowers, then maybe I’d be able to prevent erosion as well.  I planted plugs of Carex pensylvanica about 1” in diameter, and placed them about 1 ft On Center.  These were large areas, and I wanted to stretch my dollar.  The plants spread via below grade runners.  In the low-lying areas, most of the Carex died due to root rot.  There is now a variety that can handle the wet soil, Carex amphibiola, but I decided to simply go with an aggressive slug of a plant, Senecio aurea, instead.  Senecio aurea can tolerate wet conditions, and is frequently utilized in Rain Gardens.  The rest I kept with Carex pensylvanica.  As the plants grew, of course the weeds found purchase as well.  For 3 years, I tried to keep the weeds under control, down on my hands and knees, carefully wielding my soil knife.  Unfortunately, I would frequently unearth a new baby plant with the weed, diminishing the speed with which it would spread.  Last year, just as I was ready to throw in the towel, I decided to give it one more chance.  This time, instead of weeding, I would cut the weeds down to the 4-6” height of the Carex pensylvanica. To my surprise, this method worked.  After almost 4 years of struggling, it’s really starting to look soft and green, and gradually, the Carex is crowding out the weeds.

WEEDING…I do not recommend attempting to weed everything at one time unless you are working with a good crew.  Instead, just tackle a small area at a time.  If you are  walking around and can pull only a handful of weeds, do so, and lay them just outside the bed for disposal at a later date.  I usually only do the disposal 1x per week.  If you have 1 hour to weed, pick the most offensive area, set your timer, and simply stop when the time is up.  At least you will have started the process.  I usually have trouble stopping, and my back is always angry with me later.

POISON IVY…Watch out for the Poison Ivy while gardening.  Please check out my Poison Ivy Primer for some helpful suggestions.

HELLEBORUS….The flower stalks on Helleborus should be cut back close to the ground around the beginning of June.  If you still have flowers on your plants, do cut them back if you have the time.  A lot of energy will go to the development of seed rather than the growth of the plant.  If the seeds are allowed to disperse, you may wind up with hundreds of baby plants.  These babies are easy to transplant if desired.

PERENNIALS THAT FLOP….Some perennials become so tall that they become top heavy, and have a tendency to flop, especially after a good rain.  Many of us resort to bamboo stakes and ties to keep them upright, but for some plants, there is an easier solution.  In June, cut the plant height in half before it starts to flower.  This encourages additional branching and a shorter ultimate height which in turn prevents the ‘flop.’  The plant may bloom a little later than normal, but it will still bloom and be lovely.  Some of the ideal plants for cutting back include: Aconitum, Aster, Amsonia, Baptisia australis, Boltonia, Coreopsis tripteris, Eupatorium (Joe Pye Weed), Phlox maculata or Phlox paniculata, Platycodon grandiflorus, Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’, and Helianthus salicifolius.  Pinching is another good option, especially for Sedum.  Snap off the top 1/3 to 1/2 of each stem by hand (they do snap off if you do this with a quick motion).  It actually does not take that long to do, and the outcome is much better than if you simply shear the plant.  If your flopping plant does not appear on this list, contact me.  I’ll be happy to look up the specifics of your plant.

PERENNIALS THAT REBLOOM…AFTER DEAD HEADING….You will be able to coax an additional bloom from many of your perennials if you dead head them immediately after blooming.  This works extremely well with Echinacea / Coneflower, Leucanthemum / Shasta Daisy, Salvia, and Veronica.

PRUNE SPRING FLOWERING SHRUBS…. Now is the perfect time to prune spring flowering shrubs such as Azalea, Fothergilla, Oakleaf Hydrangea, Pieris, Rhododendron, Spiraea and Viburnum.  After the flowers have dropped off, you can safely prune, and the plant will have plenty of time for the buds to set for next year.

PERENNIALS AND HERBACEOUS SHRUBS THAT BENEFIT FROM SHEARING…Some Perennials and Herbaceous Shrubs can be pruned after flowering, and will have the appearance of  a shrub all season.  Most notably are Amsonia hubrichtii / Threadleaf Bluestar, Baptisia australis / False Indigo, and  Paeonia lactifolia (the Peonies that start fresh from the ground every year).  For the Amsonia and Baptisia, I simply shear these below the spent flowers, creating a nice soft mound.  The Peonies should be selectively pruned back to foliage you like.  With this plant, be on the lookout for Powdery Mildew.  When that appears, cut the plant back to the undamaged foliage.  At the end of the summer when the Powdery Mildew appears on my plants, I simply cut the whole plant down to the ground.

RENEW UNSIGHTLY FOLIAGE…Foliage, especially perennial foliage can discolor during the growing season either from too much sun (Sun Scorch) or too much humidity (Powdery Mildew).  There are other afflictions as well, but the key is whether the appearance of the foliage bothers you.  If so, cut down the plant to the height of fresh new foliage or 2-3 inches in height if there is none.  Usually, the plant will generate new, healthy, disease free foliage that season.  In the rare case that foliage does not reappear, don’t panic.  There is a very good chance that the plant will still appear again next year.

WELCOME TO MAY
Weren’t the Daffodils amazing this year?  Last year, a number of the early blooming Daffodils never made it to the show due to an untimely freeze.  This year, they were spectacular.  The early, middle and late season varieties all did well.  If you want to extend the show at your house, figure out which variety you have, and plan to order some from one of the other groups in July/August for the best deals.  Be sure to request that they hold off delivery until September.  One year, some arrived in August, and I lost a bunch due to mold from our heat and humidity.  I had them stored in my garage.

We had a crazy spring this year with shifts from warm to cold to warm to cold.  Many of our plants didn’t know what to do.  If you have any Hydrangea macrophylla, they were among the hardest hit.  I know that quite a few of you have ‘Endless Summer.’  Many needed to be cut back to the height of the new growth coming from the base.  The varieties that bloom on 1^st and 2^nd year wood should bloom this year, but it may be a little later than normal.  If your varieties only bloom on 2^nd year wood, don’t expect any blooms.  If you’re tired of this lackluster performance of the H. macrophylla, consider some of these other options….

HYDRANGEA SERRATA / MOUNTAIN HYDRANGEA – though they bloom on 2^nd year wood, these bloom a little later than the H. macrophylla, and seem to weather the late spring freeze/thaw a bit better

HYDRANGEA ARBORESCENS / SMOOTH HYDRANGEA – bloom on 1^st year wood, and don’t seem bothered at all

HYDRANGEA PANICULATA / PEE GEE HYDRANGEA – bloom on 1^st year wood, and don’t seem bothered at all

HYDRANGEA QUERCIFOLIA / OAKLEAF HYDRANGEA – bloom on 2^nd year wood, but for some reason, aren’t nearly as affected by the late spring fluctuations

Some of the other plants where I’ve noticed dieback….
ABELIA
CALLICARPA
HYPERICUM
There may be others, but these are the ones I’ve seen.  Just prune back to healthy foliage, and the plant should look fine in short order.

WORMS, THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIRELESS EFFORTS
There have been years when some of you have reported terrible damage that you have attributed to worms.  I even found some well-documented articles on the subject, so I do sympathize if you have been adversely affected by these little creatures.  I live in the woods, and as you can imagine, I have installed many garden areas throughout our property.  When I started, our soil was mostly clay of the bright orange variety.  Today, those same garden beds have well aerated soil, very dark brown to a depth of about 10 inches or more.  If you have worms, you learn to recognize the regurgitated tiny soil pellets they leave behind, rich in nutrients, helping to keep our soil cool and moist.  I top dress with a layer of shredded bark mulch once a year.  The mulch decomposes, which also adds to the health of the soil, and the worms help a lot with the decomposition process.  While many of you can’t wait to rid your planting beds of these creatures, so far, I’m happy to share my space.

KEEP TRACK OF TEMPERATURES
Enjoy the warm summer days that often surprise us in May, but also try to remember how difficult this is for our plants.  If the weather suddenly turns warm, the plants will be experiencing stress and will need more water.  A good rule of thumb is a 20 degree change in temperature is significant enough to cause stress.  During the growing season, try to give your plants water 3x/week, if at all possible.  Just do the best you can.  Remember a long, slow, steady soak is much better than a quick burst.

PEONIES AND ANTS
Have you seen ants swarming around your peonies?  This is actually a good sign. Not only are ants NOT harmful, they are actually an example of biological mutualism. The peonies provide nectar (food) for the ants; the ants protect the peonies from aphids, thrips, and other non-beneficial insect pests.  The ants are NOT eating the thin protective layer surrounding the flower bud.  This is just a popular myth.

TIME TO DIVIDE PERENNIALS
Now, is the perfect time to divide and spread out many of the perennials.  Frequently, it’s as easy as placing the shovel where you want to cut the plant, and dig straight down.  The mother plant stays put, and the baby plant will be given a new home.  Rule of Thumb…do not change the depth of the root mass, and soak immediately after planting to remove the unwanted air pockets.

DO…spread Holly-Tone within the drip edge of all your BROADLEAF EVERGREENS, and other acid-loving plants.  It’s not too late.

DO…spread Plant-Tone within the drip edge of all other plants, but I usually limit myself to a liberal broadcast among all of my PERENNIALS.  It’s not too late.

DO lay out protective rings of DIATOMACEOUS EARTH to protect large leaved perennials from slugs.  Hopefully, I’ll get around to these chores soon.

ANNUALS…Now you can buy your annuals.  Try something different this year.  Experiment.  You can always change it later.  Feeding your plants once a week can make a huge difference in the performance.  Miracle Gro, Peter’s Plant Food or Jack’s Classic Plant Food are options.  If you use a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote, then you may only need to apply 1x/month or less.

SPRING FLOWERING PLANTS…Your Helleborus should be dead headed to minimize the number of volunteer seedlings.  Many of their seed pods are plump and ready to explode.  Spring flowering bulbs will benefit if you remove the spent flowers and allow the foliage to remain until it turns brown.

GARDEN TOURS…Do you enjoy visiting private gardens?  May and June is the best time to see most Maryland gardens.  Be on the lookout for tours taking place throughout the state.

POISON IVY…Poison Ivy is already leafing out.  At least now we have a fighting chance to avoid it.  Please take precautions when in the vicinity of this irritating plant.  Feel free to refer to the Poison Ivy Primer, now resident on my website.

What a joy to see our gardens coming back to life.  Due to our unusually mild winter, the daffodils and our other spring flowering bulbs have been outstanding this year.   The Daffodils, Chionodoxa, Snow Drops, Leucojum and Winter Aconite are just a few that are reliably deer resistant.  If you have any interest in adding any of these to your garden, now is the time to take notes.  Identify spaces, and plan to order your bulbs in July-Sept for delivery in the fall.  Be sure to tell the folks you want the bulbs delivered in Sept / Oct.  Also be aware that you can extend the bloom season for the daffodils by installing bulbs that are Early/Mid/Late Season blooming.

Many plants are blooming earlier than normal.  Foliage is emerging so fast that you feel as though you are watching leaves grow right before your eyes.  I’m still in the process of pruning my Hydrangeas, and I’m hoping I’ll get to all of them in time.  I’m counting on us not having a late season freeze in April.  So, we’ll see if I’m lucky enough to be correct.

TEMPERATURE FLUCTUATION & WATER

When we have a 20 degree change in temperatures, it becomes stressful for your plants, especially those recently planted.  Please give your plants a little extra water on those days.  We normally have plenty of rain during March and April, but so far, I think we’re behind schedule.

REDBUD TREES ARE DYING

There are 2 diseases affecting the Eastern Redbud and Dogwood trees – Vascular Streak Dieback and Verticillium Wilt.  Both cause the same type of ‘streaking’ within affected branches, and both cause the demise of the tree.  Not only do these diseases spread throughout the infected tree, they also spread from tree to tree.  Whether by rain or water, they’re not sure.  Unfortunately, there is no chemical way to control these diseases, and they have caused considerable crop damage throughout the industry.  As a result, it may be difficult to source these trees over the next few years.

HYDRANGEAS…Folks are always asking when to cut back the Hydrangeas.  I have recently added this information to my website. You can find it here.  You will need to identify which ones you have, and from there, it will be easy to follow the instructions.

TRANSPLANTING

Now is the perfect time to try transplanting.   Know that the roots of the plant generally extend to the drip edge of the plant.  It would be great if you could manage a rootball to at least 50% of the drip edge of the plant, but not all of us are strong enough to handle that weight.  If roots stick out beyond the limits of the rootball, that’s fine.  Just be sure to dig the new hole large enough to accommodate the roots when spread out.  Attempt to plant at the same depth that the plant enjoyed before you decided to move it.  There are quite a few plants such as Iris that prefer to be very close to the surface.  As a rule of thumb, cut back about 1/3 of the size of the plant in order to reduce its stress.  Water thoroughly to eliminate any air pockets.

STARTING A NEW PLANT FROM CUTTINGS

We all know stories of folks who are able to take cuttings from a mature plant, stick them directly in the ground, and a new plant is off to a successful start.  If the dormant leaf buds are at the perfect stage of development, and the weather cooperates, this method will work.  To improve the probability for success, cut a branch with some healthy leaf buds visible, or just starting to break.  Make a 1 inch cut vertically through the base of the branch.  Plunge into water covering at least 2 leaf buds, and wait a week or two for the branch to start taking in water through the roots starting to grow out of the leaf bud locations.   Some people wait until the new roots are clearly visible, and then plant in the garden to the depth of the water line.

SPRING IS A BUSY TIME IN THE GARDEN

DO…spread Holly-Tone within the drip edge of all your BROADLEAF EVERGREENS, and other acid-loving plants.

DO…spread Plant-Tone within the drip edge of all other plants, but I usually limit myself to a liberal broadcast among all of my PERENNIALS.

DO YOU HAVE HOSTAS OR OTHER LARGE LEAF PLANTS?….If you have ever noticed holes in the leaves, this is usually caused by slugs.  Ortho makes a product called Slug Bait which you broadcast over the area, and is effective for several weeks before reapplication is necessary.  Another good option is to create a continuous ring around the base of the plant with DIATOMACEOUS EARTH.  This fine white or off-white powder is the ground fossilized remains of diatoms, a type of hard-shelled algae.  It causes the slugs to dehydrate and die.  I generally find that one application in the beginning of the season is all that is needed.  After 1 or 2 rains, the white ring is no longer visible.  Be sure to use gloves when handling this substance.

HELLEBORUS…DO  remove foliage from last season.

SPRING CLEANUP….A thorough spring cleanup now will greatly reduce the maintenance all summer long.  Freshen up the bed edge, rake, weed and apply 1-2 inches of  SHREDDED BARK MULCH.  Resist the urge to buy the dye-colored mulch.  You want the mulch to decompose over time, and the additional chemicals can’t be good for the plants or the environment.

SPRING FLOWERING BULBS….When the flowers start to fade, remove the flower stem close to the base (a form of DEAD HEADING).  This prevents the plant from spending a lot of energy on the development of seeds.  DO allow the foliage to remain for as long as you can stand it so that the plant will be able to manufacture food that will be sent down to feed the bulb for next year.  Some people have hundreds or thousands of daffodils and other bulbs which makes it impractical to dead head.  In this case, it’s best just to leave the entire plant alone until the foliage starts to turn yellow, and then cut it back to the ground.

POISON IVY…The foliage has yet to appear, but you can get the rash from the root system or vine stems.  It’s easy to identify the large, hairy vine climbing up a tree.  It’s much harder to identify the small fibrous root system lying dormant just beneath the surface.  A good rule of thumb is to assume that some of the roots encountered are Poison Ivy, and act accordingly.

A Poison Ivy Primer is now resident on my website as a sub-heading under Timely Tips.  Please consult this for more detailed information.

THE WELCOME SCENT OF SPRING

During the last week in February, I had an opportunity to stroll through a beautiful garden in Ruxton, one of my favorites.  Upon entering, I was met with the most wonderful fragrance.  I recognized the scent, but was hard pressed to find the source.  Finally, I looked down and noticed the Sarcococca hook. ‘Humilis’ / Sweetbox.  You won’t take notice of the flowers, they’re so tiny, but the fragrance is a welcome treat when everything else is still asleep.  Further down the path were some Edgeworthia chrysantha / Paperbush with its unusual white and yellow upsidedown flowers.  If the wind is blowing in your direction, you can enjoy their fragrance long before you see the plant.  The Edgeworthia has a very limited agricultural range – Zone 7-8, so we’re among the lucky ones.  (See the Featured Plant Archive)

Are the buds of your Hydrangea macrophylla nice and plump and starting to push out new growth?  If so, those buds are likely to be ruined if we get some freezing days.  In years past, I’ve recommended covering these Hydrangeas with a sheet to try to protect the buds. DON’T BOTHER.  We experimented with some covered and some uncovered, and there was no difference in the results.  The other Hydrangeas should make it through unscathed.  If you’ve had it with the H. macrophylla, try Hydrangea aborescens or Hydrangea paniculata.  These have yet to be bothered by the fickle conditions of February and March. You can also try Hydrangea serrata / Mountain Hydrangea.  This blooms a little later than H. macrophylla, and as the name suggests, can better handle the late freezes.

Don’t forget to harvest some of the FIDDLE HEADS from your patch of Ostrich Fern.  Saute and serve with your next meal.  They are a real treat.

WARNING…The warm weather, if we are lucky enough to see some of that, also encourages us to spend time in our gardens.  If you are sensitive to Poison Ivy, treat each outing as though the vines and roots you encounter are actually Poison Ivy in its dormant state.  Wear long sleeves, wash with Dawn, and immediately put garden clothing in the wash.  Use clean dirt to ‘wash’ gloves and boots.

PRUNING HYDRANGEAS

Remember, I have a special section on my website for Pruning Hydrangeas.  It’s a drop down menu under Timely Tips.

MARCH IS ALWAYS A BUSY TIME OF YEAR in the garden.  In addition to clearing out all of the debris from the winter, it is also time to cut back many plants.

CUT BACK TO 3”- 6” in height any ornamental grasses or perennials that became dormant over the winter.  Usually they have turned tan, brown or black.  Now is also a good time to prune the old foliage from the Helleborus hybridus, even before it turns black.  This will make the blooms even more prominent.  Last year, I tried cutting back a few of my Carex, and I was very disappointed by the effort.  The old leaves may collapse, but they also do a great job of holding in the moisture around the base of the plant.

SOME TREES AND SHRUBS WILL BENEFIT FROM SIGNIFICANT PRUNING at this time.  Annabelle Hydrangea, Hydrangea paniculata, Crepe Myrtle, Caryopteris, Hypericum, and Butterfly Bush are among this group.  For the shrubs, cutting back to 12 – 18” in height is usually sufficient.   For the trees such as Hyd. paniculata and Crepe Myrtle, removing 12 – 24” can usually be tolerated.  Over time, you will determine how much pruning suits your style.  If you want to encourage your Smokebush to have a more full, shrub-like habit, cut this back to about 3 – 6” in height.  This will promote lots of new branches from the base, but may take 2 years before it reaches a 3’ height.

DO NOT PRUNE SPRING FLOWERING trees and shrubs until after they have bloomed.

WRAPPED EVERGREENS…If you have wrapped evergreens to protect them during the winter, do WAIT until the end of March to unwrap.  The really wet snows usually arrive in March, and cold winds will bring the Leaf Burn you are trying to prevent.

BOXWOOD, DWF. ALBERTA SPRUCE and ARBORVITAE rarely make it through any winter unscathed.  Spreading is the most common problem.  Do not waste your time trying to rejuvenate these.  The best you can do is to tie them up internally, or simply replace the plant.  Some branches have been bent for so long, and are so brittle that they will break when you attempt to tie them up.  If this happens to you, make a clean cut near the break.  If you can tolerate the plant’s new shape, then let it be.  If not, then remove the offensive specimen.

Boxwood will rejuvenate if the wood receives direct sunlight, but the process is slow.

One of the best times to TRANSPLANT SPRING FLOWERING BULBS is right after flowering.  With the flowers still visible, you will have a much easier time determining their new location.  The only downside is that the blooms this season may not last as long due to the trauma of being moved.  Bulbs that have migrated under shrubs should be among the first to be relocated.

IF YOU NEED HELP, it’s not too late to contact a landscape contractor to help with the spring cleanup.  A thorough cleanup, new spade cut bed edges and a fresh layer of mulch greatly improve the ease of garden maintenance throughout the growing months.  Be careful not to smother newly emerging bulbs and perennials.  If you have a lot of perennials in your garden, postpone mulching until after the foliage has emerged.

IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION about a particular shrub or perennial in your garden, please feel free to send me an e-mail.  I will respond promptly.  If you don’t remember the name of the plant, send me some photos.