As September arrives, I’m filled with renewed energy, and anticipation of new beginnings. Just as families are energized by the start of a new school year, the gardener in me looks forward to modifying the outdoor spaces with new plants, or moving old ones. As the temperatures begin to cool, we and our plants will have a much easier time in the garden.

And then we have DEER. Yes, they are voracious, and every year they seem to become less concerned about humans. One neighbor reported them up on the porch helping themselves to tomatoes. They no longer budge when I walk by with my large dog on a leash. Many of us use Deer Sprays to protect our plants. Recently, I have heard of 2 products you may want to add to your arsenal.

REPELLEX – a Systemic Granular Product
Active Ingredient – Capsaicin – this is derived from chilli peppers

Sprinkle some in the hole before setting the new plant. Supposedly, the substance is absorbed through the vascular system of the plant to make it taste bad. One of my landscape contractors won’t do an installation without it.

DEER SCRAM – a Dry Granular Product
Active Ingredients – Bone Meal, Garlic, Red Pepper, Cloves

Broadcast throughout the foliage. Even after a gentle rain, it may still be effective as a deterrent since the product may now be on the surface of the soil with a strong scent. One client prefers this to using the sprays, because it is not clogging the pores of the foliage. The negative part is the need to reapply after a heavy rain. Her garden was beautiful with many plants that are normally devoured by the deer, and her property backs up to the Gunpowder Falls.

Unfortunately, as we look around, we see evidence of the harsh summer we’ve endured. Lawns are brown, foliage may look dry and shriveled, and sometimes it has gone dormant prematurely. All are measures taken by the plant to survive the heat with relatively low rainfall. As these hot and dry conditions persist, please continue to water as regularly as you can. The shallow rooted evergreens may not have drooping leaves, but I can assure you they are feeling the stress just as much as your Hydrangeas.

PLANTING & TRANSPLANTING
The fall is a perfect time to install new plants as the temperatures begin to cool off. Though most should be planted before November, there are quite a few deciduous trees and shrubs that can be planted even in November or December.

Now is the perfect time to divide and transplant your Herbaceous Peonies and Itoh Peonies.

If TRANSPLANTING, I recommend taking the following steps…

Hold off until at least mid-September so things will cool off a bit.

Water the plant really well for at least 1 week prior to moving.

Create the largest rootball you can manage. Have burlap and hemp on hand in case you need it to hold the soil tight to the roots.

Pour water in the new hole; let it drain.

Sprinkle hole with a combination of Bio-Tone (for root growth) and Soil Moist. You only need a very small amount of the Soil Moist. It’s my insurance in case I neglect to water for a short period of time.

Plant at the same depth.

Water thoroughly to remove any air pockets.

REMOVE DAMAGED FOLIAGE
Many summer stressed perennials will perk up during these fall months. If you remove the old foliage, the new foliage will look like a brand new plant. If your herbaceous Peonies have succumbed to powdery mildew, do cut them back at the base. Other perennials with powdery mildew should be cut back to 3” ht as well. When sprucing things up for the fall, keep in mind the effect you want during the winter months. The black seed heads of Rudbeckia are quite striking against the snow, and the foliage of ornamental grasses is graceful blowing in the wind. Dormant foliage will also provide another layer of insulation against the cold, and a habitat for wildlife. It is your personal taste that matters the most.

PRUNING
September is also a good time for pruning trees and shrubs that bloom on new wood. The new growth encouraged by pruning will have sufficient time to harden off before the winter cold settles in our area. Plants that bloom in the spring on the previous season’s growth should be left alone until after blooming in the spring. Most notably, this group includes Azalea, Rhododendron, Lilac, Viburnum, and most of the spring flowering trees. If you are unsure, please send me an email, and I’ll be happy to advise which group applies.

 

THE HEAT WAVES HAVE BEEN BRUTAL…It’s HOT.  It’s really HOT.  And did I mention that it’s HOT!!!  Summers in Baltimore are frequently uncomfortable, but this summer feels worse than normal.  We had August heat in July, and yet we are still experiencing the August heat in August.  And don’t forget the humidity.  The nerve of Mother Nature!!  We’ve had some impressive storms in July and early August, but they are so severe and short lived that it’s difficult for our land to absorb the water before it runs off down the hill.  Quite a few plants are having a tough time.  Don’t be too hard on yourselves if you have some plants that just don’t make it.  For many of our plants, they may simply go dormant prematurely, and will leaf out just fine next spring. The Naked Ladies (Amaryllis belladonna) will soon come into bloom, defiantly showing off their dusty pink blooms above bare stalks.  What a welcome surprise amid the heat.

FUNGUS…This time of year, especially with all of our humidity, it’s quite common to see a fungus appear among our plantings.  One common type looks a bit like white foam.  It will go through various color transformations until eventually turning black and turning to dust.  The fungus is a good sign letting you know that some healthy decomposition is at play.  If it bothers you, it can be scraped off.  Otherwise, just let it be.  It will disappear on its own.

DO YOU HAVE ANNUALS IN CONTAINERS?…These plantings will benefit from an application of Miracle Gro or Jack’s Classic 1x per week, as well as some water on a daily basis.  Most only need 1x per day.  If you have hanging baskets, they may need water 2x per day.  They lose so much moisture due to exposure on all sides.

PLANTING IN AUGUST?…Only plant something new in August if you plan to be around to care for the new plants.  For most of us, it’s best to hold off until September.

PLAN FOR YOUR FALL PLANTING NOW…Fall (Sept – Nov) is one of the best times to plant.  I recommend placing your orders now before the nurseries sell out of that special plant you want.  If ordering from a catalog, make sure to specify NO DELIVERY BEFORE SEPTEMBER.  If spring flowering bulbs are on your list, many suppliers are offering discounts if you order now.

TURF GRASS….All of the turf grass experts extol the virtues of planting new grass in the fall.  If your area is in full sun without deciduous trees, then they are absolutely correct.  If you live in a wooded area, planting in the fall can feel like throwing away good money.  Just imagine the tragedy of leaves falling and smothering baby blades of new grass.  Maybe mature grass can withstand the insult, but young grass is likely to die.  If you are in a wooded area, I recommend defying the experts and planting in the spring.  Be sure to hold off on chemicals to kill weeds until after the lawn has had 3 or 4 cuts, and is strong enough to withstand the treatments.

WEEDING AND WATERING… Just do the best you can.  It’s tough to be motivated when it’s in the 90’s with high humidity.

The DROUGHT… July had very little rain, and we will probably be in store for more of the same in August. We will need to water our plants, but we should try to be as conservative as possible with our water use.  I know most of us have learned to avoid watering in the evening to avoid mold and mildew developing on the foliage.  When we experience extreme heat, sometimes an evening watering is actually the best way to go.  At least the water will have a chance to soak into the soil without immediate evaporation by the sun.  I frequently water between 6p-10p.  If you have a timer, you can water at 3 or 4am.  Remember, a thorough soaking for 15 – 30 minutes 2 times per week is much better than a brief spritz daily.

ENJOY THE REST OF YOUR SUMMER, AND ENJOY YOUR GARDENS.

 

This has been a rather strange growing season.  Some plants are thriving while others are struggling to survive, and for no apparent reason.  It all started in early spring, when whole groups of daffodils failed to bloom.  Many of the Abelia and Spirea looked awful, yet many have bounced back just fine.  My Edgeworthia bloomed beautifully in March, and then appeared as though they were about to die.  Thankfully, they seem to have recovered nicely.  On the other end of the spectrum, the Kousa Dogwood and the Oakleaf Hydrangea have been absolutely outstanding this year.  Some plants are blooming later than normal.  My Native Rhododendron / Rhododendron maximum didn’t start to bloom until the last week in June.  My only suspicion is the extreme fluctuation in temperature during March, when we had some warm days, followed by freezing, and then a repeat of the same.  Of course, many of the Hydrangea macrophylla buds froze, we’re all used to that by now, but the reaction of our other plants is something new for me.

If any of you have similar observations or theories about what we are experiencing, please share your thoughts.

WATERING…Do you ever see those landscapers with the water tank on their trucks?  I can’t tell you how often I see these folks spraying the foliage.  They water the soil first (GOOD), but then they spend quite a bit of time spraying the foliage, hoping it will cause the drying out leaves to perk right back up.  If it is cloudy and cool, then spraying the foliage is fine, but if it is sunny or in the heat of the day, it will likely cause the foliage to burn.  If the water hits the flowers, it could hasten the wilting of the blooms.  This is why we recommend watering either very early in the morning, or late in the day/ early evening.  We also recommend this time so that the water has a chance to seep into the soil rather than immediately evaporate into the air.  Unfortunately, the commercial watering trucks don’t have that luxury, and will frequently be forced to water during the hottest portion of the day.  Make sure your professionals know that it’s best to water only the soil.

“Once my plants are established, then I no longer need to water.”  How many of us have heard this before?  For plants with substantial root systems such as trees and some shrubs, this may be true.  For plants located in the absolute perfect conditions for that particular plant, this may be true.  But for all others, supplementing with irrigation will be a huge benefit.  How will I know if my plant is in the ideal location?  You could try eliminating all artificial irrigation to see if it survives, but for many of us, this is more risk than we are willing to take.  I am much better about irrigating my garden within my deer fence than I am about the plants outside.  And it shows.  The plants outside are a bit stunted, and a number of my perennials seem to be dwindling a bit.  For instance, my Brunnera ’Jack Frost’ inside the garden is huge and multiplying, while those outside seem to be dying off.

When the temperatures sore into the 90’s, do try to give a bit more water to your plants.  If you can water 3x/ week, that will be ideal.  Even if you can only supplement 1x/week, your plants will appreciate the extra help.  Remember that a thorough soaking early in the morning before 10a or late in the day after 5p is best, so that the water has time to penetrate deep into the soil before the sun beats down again.

THISTLE…has a tap root that seems to go on forever.  When pulled, you rarely get the whole plant.  There is a product on the market that targets Thistle called Lontrell, available at SiteOne Landscapes, and at other locations.  Spray on the foliage.  It will be absorbed through the vascular system into the roots, and kill the plant.  The good news is that it does NOT seem to bother other trees and shrubs.  It will damage some perennials, so do use caution when applying.

PERENNIALS THAT FLOP….Some perennials become so tall that they become top heavy, and have a tendency to flop, especially after a good rain.  Many of us resort to bamboo stakes and ties to keep them upright, but for some plants, there is an easier solution.  In June, cut the plant height in half before it starts to flower.  This encourages additional branching and a shorter ultimate height which in turn prevents the ‘flop.’  The plant may bloom a little later than normal, but it will still bloom and be lovely.  Some of the ideal plants for cutting back include: Aconitum, Aster, Amsonia, Baptisia australis, Boltonia, Coreopsis tripteris, Eupatorium (Joe Pye Weed), Phlox maculata or Phlox paniculata, Platycodon grandiflorus, Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’, and Helianthus salicifolius.  Pinching is another good option, especially for Sedum.  Snap off the top 1/3 to 1/2 of each stem by hand (they do snap off if you do this with a quick motion).  It actually does not take that long to do, and the outcome is much better than if you simply shear the plant.  If your flopping plant does not appear on this list, contact me.  I’ll be happy to look up the specifics of your plant.

JAPANESE BEETLES…need I say more.  Typically, I recommend to my clients to treat their property with grub control in the spring.  This will kill the grubs (Japanese beetle larvae) that turn into the beetles that devour our vegetation.  I cheat, and have a lawn company treat my lawn areas every year with a grub control.  Not only will this kill the grubs, but it will also reduce your mole population since they are attracted to the grubs.  If you treat your property, that’s wonderful, but if your neighbor does not, then you may still have a problem.

Unfortunately, it’s too late for that now.  The beetles are here.  So now, what can we do.

DO NOT purchase a Japanese Beetle Trap.  They simply attract everyone’s beetles to your house.

Option 1 – Go out early in the morning with a jar of soapy water.  Pluck off the beetles, and drown them in your jar.  When your jar is full, and the beetles are dead, just dump into the back of the garden and start over again.  Leave the jar outside so that it’s always handy.

Option 2 – Dust the foliage with Sevin Dust, available at most garden centers such as Home Depot, Lowes, Valley View Farm.  One friend puts some dust in an old stocking and swings it around the foliage to be treated.  Try to avoid getting the dust on your skin, in your eyes or breathing.  Try to avoid getting the dust on flowers since it will kill many of our beneficial pollinators.  Hibiscus syriacus / Rose-of-Sharon is one of their favorites.  It’s not in bloom yet, so now would be a good time to dust.

Option 3 – Treating the soil with Nematodes in the Spring.  Nematodes are living organisms that will kill the grubs.  Go to www.gardensalive.com for reliable information.

PRUNE SPRING FLOWERING SHRUBS…. It’s not too late to prune spring flowering shrubs such as Azalea, Pieris, Rhododendron, Spirea and Viburnum.  After the flowers have dropped off, you can safely prune, and the plant will have plenty of time for the buds to set for next year.  This is also a good time to prune the Oakleaf Hydrangea, but you need to be willing to chop off some of those beautiful flowers.

DEAD HEADING PERENNIALS DOES HELP….Most perennials only bloom once a year.  After the blooms are finished, it does help to cut the flower stem down to the height of the attractive foliage.  This prevents unnecessary energy flowing to the development of seed, and instead flows into the development of the root system.  If you want to propagate your plants from seed, then leave at least a few flowers for this purpose.

COLLECTING SEED TO GROW YOUR OWN….I have trouble keeping a few of my perennials going, such as ‘Nora Barlow’ Columbine / Aquilegia ‘Nora Barlow’, and of course Foxglove / Digitalis which is a biennial.  For these, I collect the seeds before their capsules burst, and I plant them quite shallow in a designated part of my garden.  It’s in the back and out of sight.  I know where to look for the progeny of my effort, and I’m careful not to be too hasty about weeding.  The germination has worked well.  I’ve been a bit lazy about transplanting the young plants to more ideal locations later, but at least I have the option to do so.

WHEN TO LEAVE THE PERENNIALS ALONE….Many birds love the seeds produced by our plants, and sometimes the dried seed heads are very attractive in the winter.  A prime example is Black-Eyed Susan / Rudbeckia fulgida.  After the flowers are finished, you are left with the round, black center which persists all winter long, and is quite attractive against the snow.  This is a personal decision that sometimes means the choice between an aesthetic you prefer, and doing what may be more advantageous to the ecosystem you are nurturing. Through trial and error, you will figure out what works best for you.

RENEW UNSIGHTLY FOLIAGE…Foliage of our PERENNIALS can discolor during the growing season either from too much sun (Sun Scorch) or too much humidity (Powdery Mildew).  There are other afflictions as well, but the key is whether the appearance of the foliage bothers you.  If so, cut down the plant to the height of fresh new foliage or to a height of  2-3 inches if all of the foliage is bad.  Usually, the plant will generate new, healthy, disease free foliage this season.  In the rare case that foliage does not reappear, don’t panic.  There is a very good chance that the plant will still appear again next year.

HAVE A NICE SUMMER, AND ENJOY YOUR GARDENS.

This year, spring has been a bit colder, and not quite as wet.  With the crazy temperatures in March and early April when we were teased by some warm days only to be followed by freezing nights, I think there were quite a few Daffodils that failed to bloom.  Many of the Hydrangea macrophyllas were hard hit as well.  If you are fortunate enough to have full sun and a somewhat protected site, you may have avoided this fate.  For the rest of us, it was a disappointment.  The month of May should see more consistently warm temperatures, and we’ll see many plantings taking off.

For the past few weeks, my Senecio aurea / Running Groundsel has been in bloom along the street.  The bright yellow blooms can be seen from blocks away, and the gentle fragrance is a real treat as you walk by.  WARNING…Just as the name implies, this plant is a runner, tough as nails, and will be difficult to contain.  Plant where it can spread.  I had a problem of erosion due to tracks from lawn mowers, so I now have Senecio instead of turf grass.  Just weed wack 1x/year.  The basal foliage stays evergreen all winter.

A FEW AMENDMENTS TO THE MARCH TIMELY TIPS

ITOH PEONIES – can be safely divided in the fall

DISCUSSION ON HYDRANGEAS

I left out of the discussion Hydrangea serrata / Mountain Hydrangea, and it deserves special attention.  Over the past 10 years, we have seen the Hydrangea macrophylla die back to the ground by late spring freezes more times than we care to admit.  Those of you who have the ‘Endless Summer’ type cultivars that are able to bloom on first and second year wood, then you’ve been lucky enough to have some flowers every year.  But it’s never quite as nice a show as when all of the buds survive.  The Hydrangea serrata blooms a little later than the H. mac., therefore, not quite as susceptible to the late spring freezes.  As more folks learn about this beautiful alternative, the availability should increase.  The Care & Maintenance for Hyd. serrata is the same as for Hyd. macrophylla.

This month’s featured plant is Hydrangea serrata.

KEEP TRACK OF TEMPERATURES

Enjoy the warm summer days that often surprise us in May, but also try to remember how difficult this is for our plants.  If the weather suddenly turns warm, the plants will be experiencing stress and will need more water.  A good rule of thumb is a 20 degree change in temperature is significant enough to cause stress.  During the growing season, try to give your plants water 3x/week if at all possible.  Just do the best you can.  Remember a long, slow, steady soak is much better than a quick burst.

PEONIES AND ANTS

Have you seen ants swarming around your peonies?  This is actually a good sign. Not only are ants NOT harmful, they are actually an example of biological mutualism. The peonies provide nectar (food) for the ants; the ants protect the peonies from aphids, thrips, and other non-beneficial insect pests.  The ants are NOT eating the thin protective layer surrounding the flower bud.  This is just a popular myth.

TIME TO DIVIDE PERENNIALS

Now, is the perfect time to divide and spread out many of the perennials.  Frequently, it’s as easy as placing the shovel where you want to cut the plant, and dig straight down.  The mother plant stays put, and the baby plant will be given a new home.  Rule of Thumb…do not change the depth of the root mass, and soak immediately after planting to remove the unwanted air pockets.

DO…spread Holly-Tone within the drip edge of all your BROADLEAF EVERGREENS, and other acid-loving plants.  It’s not too late.

DO…spread Plant-Tone within the drip edge of all other plants, but I usually limit myself to a liberal broadcast among all of my PERENNIALS.  It’s not too late.

DO lay out protective rings of DIATOMACEOUS EARTH to protect large leaved perennials from slugs.  Hopefully, I’ll get around to these chores soon.

ANNUALS…Now you can buy your annuals.  Try something different this year.  Experiment.  You can always change it later.  Feeding your plants once a week can make a huge difference in the performance.  Miracle Gro, Peter’s Plant Food or Jack’s Classic Plant Food are options.  If you use a slow release fertilizer such as Osmocote, then you may only need to apply 1x/month or less.

SPRING FLOWERING PLANTS…Your Helleborus should be dead headed to minimize the number of volunteer seedlings.  Many of their seed pods are plump and ready to explode.  Spring flowering bulbs will benefit if you remove the spent flowers and allow the foliage to remain until it turns brown.

GARDEN TOURS…Do you enjoy visiting private gardens?  May and June is the best time to see most Maryland gardens.  Be on the lookout for tours taking place throughout the state.

POISON IVY…Poison Ivy is already leafing out.  At least now we have a fighting chance to avoid it.  Please take precautions when in the vicinity of this irritating plant.  Feel free to refer to the Poison Ivy Primer, now resident on my website.

 

NEW BLOG FORMAT

We are now utilizing a Blog Format for the Timely Tips and the Featured Plant. As a result, all future entries will be available whenever you need them. The Featured Plant section currently has search capabilities that work well. We will continue to work to improve the search capabilities for both. Eventually, you will be able to Google something like….Betten Timely Tips Putting plants to bed for the winter…., and the correct link will appear. For now, you will simply scroll down the Timely Tips page to see Dec, 2021 – Feb, 2022. All of this should make the site more user friendly. If you run into a problem, please let me know so that we can address it.

SPRING IS AROUND THE CORNER

My garden is still fast asleep. I’ll take this as a good sign. I love watching the buds fill out and spring bulbs push up from the earth with the promise of renewal in the months ahead. We have hardly seen any snow this winter. Snow is very beneficial to plants over the winter, providing some insulating protection from winter winds, and slow moisture release into the soil. Hopefully, our plants will emerge in good health over the coming months. The deer have been voracious, and I’ve resigned myself to finally giving up and replacing many of my Rhododendron with plants they should leave alone. The never-ending battle for survival of the fittest.

Are the buds of your Hydrangea macrophylla nice and plump and starting to push out new growth? If so, those buds are likely to be ruined if we get some freezing days. In years past, I’ve recommended covering these Hydrangeas with a sheet to try to protect the buds. DON’T BOTHER. We experimented with some covered and some uncovered, and there was no difference in the results. The other Hydrangeas should make it through unscathed. If you’ve had it with the H. macrophylla, try Hydrangea aborescens or Hydrangea paniculata. These have yet to be bothered by the fickle conditions of February and March.

Don’t forget to harvest some of the FIDDLE HEADS from your patch of Ostrich Fern. Saute and serve with your next meal. They are a real treat.

WARNING…The warm weather, if we are lucky enough to see some of that, also encourages us to spend time in our gardens. If you are sensitive to Poison Ivy, treat each outing as though the vines and roots you encounter are actually Poison Ivy in its dormant state. Wear long sleeves, wash with Dawn, and immediately put garden clothing in the wash. Use clean dirt to ‘wash’ gloves and boots.

PRUNING HYDRANGEAS

If you are like me, it’s hard to resist adding Hydrangeas to your landscape. Very few plants have such an outstanding show of blooms that persist for months. Even in their dried state, I find them an asset to the garden. In Maryland, we are fortunate to have so many options. But, when and how to prune? For this entry, I combined my experience with that of some expert landscape managers – Ron Ammon in Anne Arundel County and John Stevener in Baltimore County. I even consulted Dr. Francis Gouin’s book, Enough Said! This won’t be all of the Hydrangeas that are out there, but these are the most popular.

Hydrangea anomola var. petiolaris / Climbing Hydrangea – bloom in spring

It’s best to prune shortly after flowering in the spring, but this is such a tough plant that it can be pruned almost anytime. It can even handle significant hard pruning of several feet, and if done in the spring, you’ll find that the new growth will hide all of your cuts in no time.

Hydrangea arborescens ‘Annabelle’ / Annabelle Hydrangea – bloom in spring

Cut back to 12-18” in height in early-March. Also, remove any old, dead canes. Some folks remove small stems smaller than a pencil, but I’m lazy, and never worry about this. Cutting back in this manner encourages the production of the large flower heads we crave.

Hydrangea macrophylla / Bigleaf Hydrangea – bloom in summer

This group includes the Hortensia varieties (snowball), and Lacecap varieties that bloom on 2nd year wood. It also includes all of the ‘Endless Summer’ cultivars bred to bloom on 1st and 2nd year wood. As it turns out, the pruning is the same for all. Unfortunately, we have had several years lately when just about all of our flowering buds (apical buds) have been killed by a late freeze. When this is severe, the plant could die back to the ground and need to start all over again. Those blooming only on 2nd year wood are likely to be without flowers for the entire season, while those blooming on 1st and 2nd year wood may have nice flowers in late summer.

The best we can do is to cut back after the last freeze when we can see which buds are still healthy and plump. Prune back to the height of healthy buds. Remember that this plant will generally grow 2-3 ft in a season. All old, dead canes should be removed. Dr. Gouin also recommends, “that last year’s flowering canes should be removed as well as canes thinner than a pencil in diameter. To obtain maximum flower size with stems that are strong enough to support the flowers, thin the remaining stems so the space between them is 3” to 4” apart. This will allow strong stems to develop and space for strong new stems to emerge.”

Hydrangea paniculata / Panicle Hydrangea – bloom summer/fall

Popular cultivars include ‘Grandiflora’ (PeeGee Hydrangea), ‘Limelight’, ‘Little Lime’(a dwarf form), ‘Vanilla Strawberry’, ‘Tardiva’ just to name a few. They seem to come out with new cultivars every year.

Hard prune in the spring. March or April will be fine. If you are concerned that a heavy snow might break a drooping branch in a bad location, then by all means, cut this back a bit prior to the first snow. It is possible to hard prune these plants in the fall, but then you lose the graceful architecture for the winter months.

Hydrangea quercifolia / Oakleaf Hydrangea – bloom late spring

The best time to prune is right after flowering, probably mid-late June. Unfortunately, by doing so, you will cut off many of the flowers you normally enjoy as they age from white to pink to mauve to tissue paper brown. Since this plant blooms on the previous years growth, pruning right after flowering is really the best option. If you prune in March prior to bloom time, the plant will do well, but you won’t have many flowers.

Cut the spent blooms back to a large healthy pair of buds. To reduce size, cut back no more than a third of the plant at a time. Do not cut back all branches by a third. Blooms appear at the tips of branches so an overall trim will just repeat the pruning errors of the previous year. Cut out no more than a third of the entire branches, if you want some blooms next year. If lightly pruned in winter or early spring, you will decrease the bloom count but may get larger blooms.

Hydrangea serrata / Mountain Hydrangea – bloom late spring     ZONE 6-9

This variety is usually smaller in habit than the H. macrophylla, but is still lush and full-blooming.  This family of hydrangeas comes from Japan and has very serrated leaves that show lots of red and burgundy in the sun as they age.  This group is a great choice for locations subject to late spring frosts as they are late to leaf out, and typically avoid risk of damage.

Prune the same as the Hydrangea macrophylla.

IF YOU NEED HELP, it’s not too late to contact a landscape contractor to help with the spring cleanup. A thorough cleanup, new spade cut bed edges and a fresh layer of mulch greatly improve the ease of garden maintenance throughout the growing months. Be careful not to smother newly emerging bulbs and perennials. If you have a lot of perennials in your garden, postpone mulching until after the foliage has emerged.

IF YOU HAVE A QUESTION about a particular shrub or perennial in your garden, please feel free to send me an e-mail. I will respond promptly. If you don’t remember the name of the plant, send me some photos.